Please contact me with any new route information or just to tell me about your climbing experience at jasonandkimrock@gmail.

Kim and I have been busy this summer equipping new routes. Usually I clean, bolt and get dirty and she comes along and red points them. It all works out pretty good. Anyways I thought I'd let you know about the new routes especially in Blackleaf.

We have been working on two new areas on Blackleaf's main wall. The "Prozac Area" is near where the trail meets the cliff on the west end of the wall. The "Dentist Area" is just past "Zen" on a grassy knoll.

Both areas are not typical Blackleaf crimpfests they are highly textured and have a variety of moves including some cool pinches and open hand slopers.

The "Dentist" area is characterized by refrigerator sized "Teeth" that you crawl around then finally surmount. I can honestly say I've never climbed anything like it.

Have fun be safe wear a helmet!

For more beta please scroll down.


 ^KIM ON "NOBODIES FOOL" AVALANCHE GULCH

 

BLACKLEAF UPDATE  AUG 2014

 

 

PROZAC AREA

Routes listed from right to left.

 

1. LOCO 10.b  65feet. Bolts. Start on beauty chert and work up an engaging face.
2. PSYCHO  10.B  65 feet  Bolts. Defined by Ginsu flake at mid height.
3. SEDATED  11.A 85FT. Bolts. Technical face joins incut edges hits you with a cool bulge near cruxy end. Good and committing.
4. CRAZY TRAIN 10.D  85FT. Bolts. So much fun thru several small roofs on good holds.
5. Smurfs on Acid  11.b 85'. Bolts. Tricky Thought provoking climbing one tough clip and adventure by the ton.
6. SKETCHED OUT FAT GUY. 10.A 65FT. One move wonder mostly 5.8 the one 5.10 move is super tricky with a bolt in your face. Great warm up. 2p 11b 85' bolts. Steep clean climbing through bulges ending on pumpy arête.
7. BROS NOT HOS. 2p. 1p- 10.d Side pull up blunt arête. 2p-11.d left line. Exciting slugfest up ever steepening corners and small roofs.Better have your stuff together. Right line. 11b 85'. please climb this great well bolted superb route!
8. SHIV 10.c  90ft bolts. Another must do has a tricky bit at mid height and then chugs up cool arête. Ends on chains of “Deep End”.
9. FUNKY MONKEY 10.d 75' Bolts Funky side pulls and pinches on well bolted face on far left side of wall. 
10. Loose Screw 11.c 75ft. Begin just right of chossy pillar on platform. Chug up delicate moves sprinkled with red lichen. Pinch and pull thru bulge(crux). Well bolted thru crux.
11. ONE JUG MOMMA 10.B 70' bolts This fun varied climb is found on a mungy looking pillar. begin on white face.
12. T-Buck Super Star. 11.d 90ft. Left of a large dirty pillar near “Sands”. Heady, thin side pulls and unlikely pinches lead to desperate last clip.

*all grades and heights are approximate a 60m rope works for all, be careful.

 

DENTIST OFFICE

Routes listed from right to left.

 

1. Dr. Fear.  10.d 70ft. Bolts. Giggly juggy steep and wonderful left leaning route starts in easy chimney with a poor mans chain hanger. Use directional for TR or get rope shredded.
2. Gap toothed Girl.  10ish 70ft. Bolts. Not a great climb over a grunty roof. Shares anchors with Dr. Fear.
3. Neurotic Nurse.  11.a  90ft. Start on boulder with short finger crack. Climbing is committing and continuous.
4. Dirty Dentist 11.a 80ft. Bolts. Techy, dirty(5.7), then toothy. Unlike anything I’ve ever climbed.
5. Root Canal 11.a/b 80ft. Bolts. Start on gorgeous flake and then crank thru dramatic “teeth”. One of the best 11,s I’ve ever equipped. 5 stars!
6. Novocain 11+ 80ft. Bolts. Way technical face climb up wonderful shield.
7. Another pretty face. 10.a Bolts. Begin on a stunning face to the left of VW sized boulder. Watch for loose rock near middle.  

 

kyle